Love Letter To Boston Restaurants

This past Friday  ( June 1, 2012), my story on Boston’s restaurant boom ran in The Dallas Morning News. I noticed that JetBlue was offering direct service from Dallas to Boston this spring, so pitched the travel editor the idea. Here’s the article, which is a great resource if you’re headed to Beantown. Of note, I took all the photos!

Boston’s great restaurants are booming 

 Victoria Abbott Riccardi/Special Contributor
Open-air dining overlooking Boston Harbor at Legal Harborside. Anchored in one of Boston’s fastest growing neighborhoods, the Seaport District, home to myriad new hotels and the Institute of Contemporary Art, this three-level seafood emporium awash in glass, metal and wood marks the latest addition to the famous Legal Seafood restaurant group, a self-described fish company that happens to be in the restaurant business.
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By VICTORIA ABBOTT RICCARDI

Special Contributor

Published: 01 June 2012 03:26 PM

It’s just another weeknight at Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston and the room buzzes with the sound of clinking ice, laughter and the pop of corks. The waitress takes our order and soon cocktails arrive followed by oysters, briny and sweet on the half shell and fried golden in sliders moistened with lime-chile aioli. Seared bass comes next, along with batter-crisp fish and chips, skate with brown butter and a lobster roll with kettle chips and slaw. As always, the place is packed to the gills and everyone’s smiling.

Across the Charles River in Cambridge a similar scenario plays out at a bevy of new eateries, where the nightly specials are craft cocktails, upscale comfort food and fun atmosphere.

The greater Boston area has always had terrific restaurants, but a recent explosion of new ones has raised the bar. Whether the focus is steak, seafood or gourmet flatbread, these restaurants have one thing in common: menus that showcase New England’s bounty of superb fish and seafood, farm-grown produce, heritage meats and award-winning cheeses.

Here is a sampling of some of the city’s tastiest new offerings.

Legal Harborside, 270 Northern Ave., Liberty Wharf, Boston, 617-477-2900

Anchored in one of Boston’s fastest growing neighborhoods — the Seaport District, home to myriad new hotels and the Institute of Contemporary Art — this three-level seafood emporium marks the latest addition to the famous Legal Seafood restaurant group, a self-described fish company that happens to be in the restaurant business. The bustling first floor houses a fish market, oyster bar and casual eatery with outdoor seating overlooking the water, where diners tuck into favorites like creamy clam chowder and lobster rolls.

Finer dining is on the second level, where you’ll find white tablecloths, a grander wine list and dressier menu options, such as shrimp cocktail served in an ice globe and local cod with sorrel sauce and foraged mushrooms. The third floor houses a window-filled rooftop bar, where you can savor shaken cocktails, bar snacks and sushi, along with breathtaking views. It’s open for lunch and dinner on the first floor; dinner only on the second floor; drink and bar snacks are on the third floor.

Menton, 354 Congress St., Boston, 617-737-0099

Having just received a Relais & Châteaux designation as one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world, this luxurious French-Italian influenced restaurant in the artsy Fort Point neighborhood fits the bill when you’re looking to splurge. The crown jewel of chef-owner Barbara Lynch’s extensive restaurant group, its soothing gray, white and black-toned dining room offers two prix fixe menu options: a four-course tasting or the multicourse chef’s tasting with optional wine pairings.

Seasonally inspired and creative without being outlandish, you’ll find such dishes as rosettes of cured arctic char in cabbage jus with rye crisps and crème fraîche; duck foie gras and Muscat grape gelée terrine with almond brioche; and Angus beef rib-eye with ramps, Yukon gold potatoes and black trumpet mushrooms. Dinners begin with a selection of canapés and conclude with a medley of tiny sweets and sighs of satisfaction. It’s open for dinner only.

Trade, 540 Atlantic Ave., Boston, 617-451-1234

With its soaring ceilings, edgy vibe and boisterous bar, this waterfront eatery attracts a young and restless crowd eager to sip, sup and catch up over small plates, soups, salads and gourmet flatbreads. Co-owners chef Jody Adams (of Cambridge’s Rialto fame), Eric Papachristos, and Sean Griffing dreamed up the global menu inspired by their travels. Ergo, you’ll find such tasty options as crispy shrimp with piripiri; striped bass ceviche with yuzu, fava beans and cucumber; and salt cod flatbread with tomatoes, olives and preserved lemon.

While it’s easy to fill up on the shared plates and sides, carnivores will swoon over the signature beef burger topped with pancetta, Vermont cheddar and grilled onion. Seafood lovers won’t want to miss the succulent, South Asian whole grilled lobster topped with a feathery mix of pea shoots, mint, asparagus and peas. It’s open for lunch and dinner.

Island Creek Oyster Bar, 500 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-532-5300

Barely a cherrystone’s throw from Fenway Park — home of Major League Baseball’s Red Sox — this red-hot seafood spot has some of the best oysters in town. That’s because one of the restaurant’s partners is Skip Bennett, owner of Island Creek Oysters farm in Duxbury, Mass. (which even supplies the White House). You’ll find homey offerings (fried-clam plates, baked beans and biscuits) as well as more sophisticated fare, including seared local sea scallops over spring parsnip purée with peas and tarragon vinaigrette (there is steak and chicken, too).

Fun cocktails abound, as well as interesting beers and a thoughtful selection of wines by the glass and bottle. To be part of the action, request a high-top table up front.

For a quieter experience, reserve a table in the back, not far from the gray back wall that upon closer inspection turns out to be made entirely of stacked oyster shells. It’s open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

Catalyst Restaurant, 300 Technology Square, Cambridge, 617-576-3000

The neighboring Massachusetts Institute of Technology inspired the name of this sleek, modern American eatery softened with natural elements like reclaimed barn wood, live grasses and a glowing fire in the lounge area.

The food can best be described as bistro fare with a New England twist, which means seared scallops with turnips and pine nut butter; hanger steak with torpedo onions and red wine sauce; or spit-roasted chicken, cut in half, and served with spuds drenched in chicken drippings.

While desserts change seasonally, don’t leave without trying the outrageous butterscotch and passion fruit pudding — a sweet, tart, creamy concoction served with pound cake croutons and cold whipped cream. It’s open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

Area Four, 500 Technology Square, Cambridge, 617-758-4444

Chef and co-owner Michael Leviton has turned his passion for creating scrumptious dishes brimming with local, sustainable ingredients into an art form — first at the elegant Lumiére in Newton and now at this airy, low-key spot in the heart of Kendall Square, home to Genzyme, Google, Microsoft and soon Amazon. In the morning, a bakery and coffee bar draws customers into the space, which, shortly before noon, opens into the casual New England eatery and bar. Two wood-fire ovens crisp the dozen or so pizzas on the menu (try the white one with local clams, bacon, hot pepper, parsley and pecorino).

The ovens roast the seafood, veggies and meats in the small-skillet creations, such as fire-licked fava beans in the edible pods with Maine sea salt and Aleppo pepper; roast chicken and artichokes over herb-dressed arugula with focaccia croutons; and roasted Chatham-hooked cod with Wellfleet littleneck clams, peas, spring onions and pea shoots.

A huge chalkboard along the back wall highlights the day’s offerings, along with seasonal cocktails, craft beers and wines. For dessert, it’s hard to resist the homemade soft-serve flavor of the day jazzed up with add-ons like soft maple candies, chocolate chips and salty bacon bits. It’s open for breakfast (coffee bar), lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

Victoria Abbott Riccardi is a freelance writer in Newton, Mass.

When you go

Legal Harborside: legalseafoods.com/restaurants/boston-legal-harborside

Menton: mentonboston.com

Trade: trade-boston.com

Island Creek Oyster Bar: islandcreekoysterbar.com

Catalyst Restaurant: catalystrestaurant.com

Area Four: areafour.com

 

LOBSTER ROLL (adapted from Legal Harborside)

1 hot dog bun

Soft butter for spreading, about 2 tablespoons

1/2 cup cooked, chopped lobster meat

2 tablespoons finely diced celery

1 tablespoon high-quality mayonnaise

Fresh lemon juice, about 1 tablespoon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Spread outside of hot dog bun with butter and toast until golden. (Place buttered hot dog bun in a toaster oven and brown on both sides.) Combine lobster meat, celery, and mayonnaise in a small bowl. Stir to blend. Add lemon juice to taste, about 1 tablespoon, and season with salt and pepper. Spoon lobster salad into toasted bun and enjoy. Serves 1

 

 

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